Second-hand skates can be good value, but only if they fit you, still provide the support you need, and have serviceable blades. A clean-looking boot or an expensive model name is not enough to establish that a pair is a good buy.
Before agreeing a price, check the photographs, boot condition, blades and actual skate size.
1. Make sure the photographs show the actual skates
The listing should show real photographs of the pair being sold, not just manufacturer pictures, screenshots or photographs borrowed from another listing. Stock photographs can help identify a model, but tell you nothing about the condition of the used pair.
Ask for clear, well-lit photographs of:
Both boots together, and each boot from the inside and outside.
The ankle area, heels and tongues, including any creasing or damage.
The lining, soles and blade mounting areas or hockey blade holders.
Both blades from the side and underneath, with guards and soakers removed.
The size and width markings on each boot, plus the model identification.
If you are unsure whether the seller has the skates, request a fresh photograph with a handwritten date or listing reference beside them. This is a useful cross-check, not a guarantee of ownership or condition.
If the seller cannot provide photographs of the actual pair, you do not have enough information to assess the purchase. Even good photographs cannot confirm how much support a boot still provides; an in-person inspection is preferable.
2. Look for boot breakdown, not just cosmetic wear
Breakdown is the loss of a boot's structural support. A boot can still look presentable while no longer supporting the skater properly.
One of the most obvious warning signs is creasing along the ankle line, where the boot bends as the skater flexes. Look particularly for deep, permanent creases, collapsed areas or a boot that leans or folds noticeably at that point.
Other concerns include:
One boot appearing much softer or more distorted than the other.
A damaged or collapsing tongue, badly worn heel lining, or a loose heel pocket.
Separation between the sole and upper, cracks, loose mountings or damaged blade holders.
Do not assume ankle creasing is harmless “wearing in”. Equally, a photograph of a crease is not a complete diagnosis: its significance depends on the boot and its remaining support. Edea notes that premature ankle creasing can also indicate sizing or lacing problems. If you are unsure, have an experienced fitter or skate technician assess the boots before buying. Edea's guidance on creasing and fit.
Surface scuffs and marks are less important than structural condition. Do not aggressively bend or twist someone else's boots to test them.
The model must also suit your skating needs. A cheap pair of advanced boots is not automatically a better choice than a more appropriate beginner or developing-skater model. Our guide to choosing skates explains size, stiffness and blade choice; the figure skate comparison provides a reference when discussing boot suitability with a fitter.
Read more about ice skate breakdown.
3. Check the blade sides and the hollow separately
The hollow is the ground groove along the underside of a conventionally sharpened blade. The two skating edges are formed where that hollow meets the sides of the blade. This is why the location and depth of rust matter, not just how much brown staining you can see.
For background on hollows and edges, read ice skate sharpening explained. The depth of hollow guide explains grind choice, which is a separate question from whether a blade is worn or damaged.
A dull hollow is not necessarily a problem
An otherwise sound blade with a dull hollow or worn edges may simply need sharpening. Dullness alone need not rule out a purchase, provided enough usable steel remains and the blade is otherwise in good condition.
Budget for a technician to inspect and sharpen the skates before use. “Needs sharpening” should not be used as a blanket explanation for corrosion, damaged edges or a badly worn blade profile.
Side rust is a significant concern
Rust on the sides of a blade, particularly near the skating edges, must not be dismissed as cosmetic. If corrosion has pitted the side of the steel where an edge is formed, it can leave an irregular or notched edge even after sharpening.
Routine sharpening works on the hollow; it does not simply replace steel lost from the blade's side. Significant side corrosion can therefore affect the quality of the edges and shorten the blade's useful life.
A small surface stain higher up the blade is not the same as deep pitting at the skating edge. Ask for close-ups and a technician's assessment rather than assuming either that every mark is serious or that all side rust will sharpen out.
Read more about edge rust.
Significant rust in the hollow is also a warning sign
Do not confuse a dull hollow with a rusty one. Significant rusting, rough corrosion or visible pits in the hollow indicate damage, rather than ordinary loss of sharpness.
Some light surface rust may be removable during sharpening. Deeper corrosion can require substantially more steel to be removed, reduce the remaining life of the blade, or make replacement necessary. Do not buy on the assumption that a normal sharpening will fix significant rust.
Also ask a technician to check the remaining blade height and profile, along with any chips, cracks or toe-pick damage. The guides to profile drift in figure blades and profile drift in hockey blades explain changes that can build up through successive sharpenings. Do not slide a fingertip along the edge to test its sharpness.
Read more about deep rust and damaged blades.
4. Verify the actual skate size
Do not assume the size in the listing is the size marked on the skates. A seller may have entered their normal shoe size, used an online conversion, or copied a size from the box rather than checked the boots themselves.
Ask for photographs of the size and width markings on both boots. Confirm the manufacturer, model and whether the markings use a men's, women's, junior or other sizing scale. A figure blade's length marking is not the boot size.
Skate manufacturers do not all use the same sizing system, and skate sizes should not be treated as ordinary UK shoe sizes. Do not assume that the same number or width letter will fit the same way across brands. Edea specifically advises against transferring your size from another brand or relying on box conversions. Edea sizing guidance.
Compare measurements of both feet with the manufacturer's guidance for that model, and seek a proper fitting wherever possible. Jackson also cautions that its charts are guides, not a replacement for fitting. Jackson sizing advice.
An insole measurement can be a useful additional cross-check, but is not proof that the boot will fit you. Used padding and previous shaping may also affect how a second-hand boot feels.
Before choosing a size, read manufacturers’ sizing for the differences between shoe references, foot measurements and boot labels. Then use checking skate fit when you have boots to try on.
Before you pay
Confirm that the photographs show the actual pair, including both boots and both blades.
Check for ankle-line creasing and other signs of lost support.
Inspect the blade sides and hollow for rust, pitting and damage — not just dullness.
Verify the size and width from the boots themselves, using the correct manufacturer's sizing system.
Include inspection, sharpening and any necessary repairs or replacement blades in the total cost.
If the condition or fit remains uncertain, arrange an assessment before committing. The saving is only worthwhile if the skates are suitable for you and still have useful life left.
Once you have bought a suitable pair, follow the skate maintenance guide for drying, guards, soakers and storage to help prevent the same problems developing again.